Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
